10 rules on buying your first Submariner, and why you shouldn't skip a single one!

Hi everyone and welcome to my first blog as a writer for Assis&Sons! Some of you might know me from daily.diogocosta where I wrote about haute horlogerie, events like Baselworld and SIHH or even my own international G2G.

I gladly accepted the invitation to become the writer behind one of my favorite brands in Portugal, Assis&Sons. Enough explanation! Let’s jump right into the article! Yep this wasn’t clickbait!


There are rules for everything in buying watches, wether old or new you should always pay attention to certain aspects to avoid letting go of your precious money and maybe your wife if she finds out you just got played.

The ref.5513 is one of the most beautiful Submariners when it comes to vintage divers! We had a lot of them passing by our store and we’re happy to say this one just arrived and is now available.

The ref.5513 is one of the most beautiful Submariners when it comes to vintage divers! We had a lot of them passing by our store and we’re happy to say this one just arrived and is now available.

  1. The first rule is basic! Have you ever heard someone saying “If t looks weird it probably is a fake”, if something looks off it means you have to do your research! Try asking for opinions of people who know about Rolex not those guys on facebook groups who act like they’ve been on the business for 45 years when they’re just 25 years old.

  2. Modern or Vintage? This is actually a question we get a lot from our friends and clients, although its about personal taste we always try to understand the individual personality and purposes of buying a watch. Is it for you? Or you want to sell it and still get a cool profit? These are questions that sometimes you have to ask yourself.

  3. Choose the reference. The more you concise your goal is the easier it will be to find. Choosing the reference may sometimes feel difficult since there are dozens of them but in the end, you’ll find easier to find certain deals. The more you specify what you want the better!

  4. Fourth rule? Always ask if it was polished or not, this can change how the watch actually looks, the lugs can be thinner and the case may even feature a different look due to a badly done polishing.

  5. Take every part into consideration. One of the most important parts of the watch, in terms of value, is the dial to make sure the dial is original, if its a service dial, if it was re-used (sometimes an easy way to spot if a dial was re-lumed is to look at the color difference between the lume spots and the lume present on the hands) or if its original in every aspect.

  6. Buying a vintage Sub? Save your life and don’t dive with it! Most vintage watches have been opened several times or the crown can even be letting water in, now imagine the damage to the caliber and dial if you would dive with your “new” timepiece that you just bought!

  7. Don’t buy if you aren’t confident! Don’t rush yourself, maybe it’s a good deal you don’t want to lose or a chance to make a profit but don’t be impulsive! There are plenty of good deals on Submariners! Buy when you feel ready, don’t let the watch or the salesperson drag you into a possible nightmare.

  8. Fake tropical dials? Whuttt? There are fake tropical dials? You may ask. Yes, and they usually like to consume all your available money. Tropical dials aren’t cheap, and there’s lots of discussion on why is a “damaged” dial worth so much. Some people say it because it features an ever-evolving color and others simply say its purely damaged. But pay attention to how the color is! There are professionals who can actually run a test to ease your doubt! You don’t want to end up having a dial in your watch that was made old by taking some vacations in a woven to make it look old.

  9. The vintage subs are charming but the sapphire models offer much better performance regarding depth rate and caliber!

  10. Always ask if there are papers and box, sometimes people don’t think this kind of features matter to a watch, but they do! A lot!

Another 5513 that we had, this one with a discreet fade on the bezel and dial! My favorite colours in vintage divers!

Another 5513 that we had, this one with a discreet fade on the bezel and dial! My favorite colours in vintage divers!

And that’s it! Hope you enjoyed this quick yet practical article! Having doubts about the watch you’re thinking about buying? Drop us a line at info@assisandons.com and we’ll help you!

We have a few surprises stored for next week! There will surely be more diver watches at the store and soon in our video/vlogs! I can’t wait for what’s coming!!

See you guys soon!

Diogo











Diogo Costa